How Oak Shaped the Classics of Wine: Part 2 Bordeaux & Burgundy – The Original Oak-Age Icons
When it comes to oak-aged wine, few regions are more iconic than Bordeaux and Burgundy. Though both French, their approaches to oak aging are as different as Cabernet and Pinot Noir. Understanding how each region uses oak helps decode their wines, and the many styles they inspired across the globe.
Bordeaux: The Barrel as a Business Tool
Bordeaux, a port city, was France’s historic gateway to European trade. Its wine had to travel, and oak barrels were the best way to get it from château to ship. As Bordeaux's reputation (and wealth) grew, so did its access to high-quality barrels.
Most Bordeaux reds are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grapes with rich tannins and bold fruit, capable of standing up to new oak. The classic barrel size (225 liters) provided the perfect balance between wine, wood, and air. The result? Aromas of vanilla, cedar, smoke, toast, and coffee—all layered atop ripe black fruit.
But here's the twist: historically, Bordeaux reds weren’t always powerful or ripe enough to absorb new oak. In cooler centuries past, grapes often struggled to ripen fully. The wines were light, dilute, and unfit for bold barrel aging. Instead, the most prestigious oak-aged Bordeaux wines were sweet.
Sauternes: The Forgotten Oak-Aging Pioneer
In the region of Sauternes, winemakers discovered a way to make intense, concentrated sweet wines from botrytized (noble rot) grapes. These golden wines, rich in sugar and flavor—could handle the structure of new oak. They aged beautifully, developing flavors of crème brûlée, baked pineapple, honey, and spice.
Centuries ago, Sauternes wines were often more expensive and celebrated than red Bordeaux. While dry reds aged in old wood, sweet whites luxuriated in fresh barrels. Today, they remain a benchmark of oak-aged dessert wine.
Burgundy: Elegance over Power
Further east, Burgundy developed a very different relationship with oak. Rooted in religious tradition, thanks to the vineyard-savvy Cistercian monks, Burgundy’s winemaking focused on terroir, purity, and grace. The most common grapes were (and still are) Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Pinot Noir’s delicate structure made it unsuitable for heavy oak. As a result, red Burgundy typically aged in older barrels that added textural depth without overwhelming the wine’s floral and earthy notes.
But Chardonnay was a different story.
Chardonnay & the 200% Oak Trick
Burgundy whites, especially those from regions like Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, are often fermented and aged in new oak. Some producers even use a method nicknamed "200% oak", where Chardonnay is both fermented and matured in fresh barrels. The result? Wines bursting with butter, brioche, vanilla, and hazelnut, balanced by a vibrant, mineral core.
So while red Burgundy whispers its elegance, white Burgundy showcases how oak, when paired with the right grape, becomes a full-throated symphony.
Check back for Part 3 as we travel to Spain and beyond.
